Hiking 27k to Avoid Another Night in a Tent: A Cape Chignecto Adventure

Four or five years ago I went on a three day, two night backpacking trip through Cape Chignecto with a couple friends from university. While we had some fun times and unforgettable memories, it was also a very taxing adventure. The last day I was just exhausted and did not see myself ever doing it again. In 2018 my mom wanted to attempt it. We started out doing 23k to the Carey Brook cabin before being evacuated out due to hurricane Dorian. Now in 2021 my mom and I again, have decided to attempt this hike and this time tenting with a four day, three night trip. Which due to a combination of circumstances, turned into three days, two nights...

Day 1 (Aug 25,2021): Red Rocks to Refugee Cove (13k)

We left early from home to drive three hours to the park entrance, arriving around 1020. After checking in and using our last flushing toilet that we would see for four days, we set off around 1035. 

The tide was low at this time so we were able to hike along the beach for close to thirty minutes. The day started out very foggy and very humid, so not much to see first starting out. At the end point there is a sign warning you not to venture any further, and points to the stairs off to the right to climb up and to begin the hike in the forest. The first thirty to forty-five minutes was a steady incline. With the high humidity we were dripping sweat within minutes. But we took our time, stopping after every ten meters or so to catch our breath. We started early so we did not have to feel rushed. We also decided to take water breaks every thirty minutes to ensure we kept ourselves hydrated, and kept up that routine the entire trip. 

There was not much to see the first half of this day. Mostly hiking through forest and a lot of inclines. Between kilometer seven and eight we stopped along the trail to have a quick lunch; bagels with peanut butter. This would have been around 1230.

The rest of the first day was fairly unremarkable as well. Some planks along the ground through the forests and a few small bridges over streams. There were two downhill portions into Mill Brook and Refugee Cove that were very steep. They were also trails for four by fours and went from the top of hills all the way to the bottom. Going down hill for so long was not pleasant on the knees. The one into Mill Brook even had a few wooden benches along the way (more likely for those hiking up). Hiking up these hills would be brutal.

By 1500 we had made it to Refugee Cove for a total time of four hours and thirty minutes. After setting up our tent at site two, we made ourselves one of our dehydrated diners from Canadian Tire and headed to the beach to enjoy a warm supper. We had chicken alfredo. We had forgotten to mix it after pouring the boiling water so not all the noodles were cooked. I did not find it too bad regardless, though my mom was not a fan and did not eat much of it. After supper we walked down to the water to soak our feet in the ocean. It felt very refreshing after a tiring day of hiking. 

We headed back to camp around 1830 to start getting everything organized and packed our food along with smelly items into our bear bag in a tree. Since it was still early we played a few rounds of crazy eights before turning in to sleep. We wanted to rest up as much as we could for the days ahead!

Day 2 (August 26, 2021): Refugee Cove to Big Bald Rock (9k)

I had expected today to be the toughest day, but it proved to not be as bad as I would have thought. We woke up to have a quick breakfast; oatmeal, and packed up to be on our way by 0850. The first hill out of Refugee Cove turned out to be the biggest challenge of the day. It was quite the climb to get out of the cove and to begin our trek to the next camp site. Thankfully it was not quite so humid. There still was a heat warning for the day, but we left early enough that the heat was not unbearable. 

It took over an hour or so but eventually we finally got to see more than just trees and got to lay eyes on some of the coastal views of the tall and rocky red cliffs, famous in the Bay of Fundy. We also made it to the tip of Cape Chignecto where we stopped for a quick snack break around 1030 or so to rest and take in the views. 

After the Cape, the last few kilometers were not so challenging because of inclines but because there was a lot of mud… like a lot. The first few times it is a bit fun trying to find the safe way through the mud. But after your fourth or fifth mud section, you have had enough. This is not fun anymore. We passed a hiker that said a lot of the rest of the trail was similar terrain, which was not what we wanted to hear. For the most part, their statement was correct.

1330 we made it to Big Bald Rock for a total hiking time of four hours and forty minutes. The muddy areas really slow you down. At this point we debated moving on to Keyhole Brook, but were unsure if there would be campsites available. In the end we decided to take the extra time to just relax. We set up our tent, had some lunch; protein wraps with dried salami, and walked over to the beach. It was calming being the only ones there. Just the sound of the water against the rocky beach. We soaked our feet in the ocean again. As I sat there with the cold water washing over my feet and the hot sun overhead, I thought about how nice it would be to cool off in the water. Only issue being that I hate really cold water, and find it very difficult to swim in oceans (Canadian oceans anyways. The water in Costa Rica was at a perfect temperature!). After much debating I decided I would try to go in. The tide was coming in which made it easier to transition further into the water. I pretty much just sat along the rocks and let the incoming tide make its way further up. Eventually the tide would push me back and then pull me further in towards the ocean. The tidal strength of the Bay of Fundy is no joke. And then finally I was up to my neck. I debated wetting my hair but I knew it would be sticky from the salt water afterwards. It was very refreshing after so much sweat the last two days. My mom said it was too cold for her to come in. 

Soon after I exited the water, we walked back to our campsite. Still no one else there. We started cooking our supper and thought of bringing it back to the beach. It is not easy to walk there and I would not be able to wear my flip flops so we elected to eat at camp.

Still with a lot of time to waste, we played more card games, and relaxed in the tent for a while before deciding to head back to the beach to watch the sunset. We stayed out for about an hour, again, enjoying the beach to ourselves. We headed back before dark to avoid walking in the pitch black and came across another mother daughter duo staying at the cabin. We chatted a bit before finally heading for bed.

Day 3 (Aug 27,2021): Big Bald Rock to Eatonville… then Red Rocks (27k)

Today did not go as originally planned. My mom and I both do not sleep well in tents. And the night prior was even worse due to thundershowers with the most lighting I think I have ever been awake to witness. Then around 0330-0400 I felt my feet were a bit damp despite being in a sleeping bag. Water had somehow gotten inside our waterproof tent! Thankfully our sleep mats kept the majority of our bodies dry. To save space we folded some of the mat into a pillow, leaving a portion of our lower legs along the tent bottom. That is where the water began to seep into the sleeping bags! So as you can imagine, not much sleep that night. I spent the last few hours waiting for the sun to rise so we could pack up and start our hike. 

At 0610, it started getting a bit light out. We got up and packed quickly. We decided to just eat a cliff bar along the way so we did not need to cook any oatmeal. We dreaded the thought of another night in a damp tent and worse yet, damp sleeping bag. Only issue being that we were 15k to Eatonville and from there another 15k to Red Rocks through the trail. We talked about the option of walking the Eatonville road instead. We had no idea how long it would be. Another 15k would put us at 30k in one day. That is a long hike with 25 pound plus backpacks! We decide to get going and continue to take our time. Our decision would depend on what time we got to Eatonville, how we felt, and how long the road was.

0650 marked our start time for day three. While there were way less inclines the first few kilometers, it appeared that we had traded them in for a surplus of muddy terrain. And the thunder showers did not help! The first portion was beautiful despite the fog. Nice coastal views for what we could see and nice firm rocky ground. We stopped for a few minutes to snack on our cliff bars. But that was it for our muddy free hike. It felt like 80 percent of the rest of the hike was mud. Not enjoyable at all!

By the time we arrived at Keyhole Brook, we already had mud up our legs and/or pants. My socks felt soggy despite having waterproof boots. We were moving at a fairly decent pace despite the mud. We arrived at Keyhole by 0930. While taking a short break and relaxing our shoulders from the heavy bags, we encountered another hiker leaving the Keyhole campsites. He was the only one at that location, so it turned out we could have kept going. After the quick respite, we were on our way to the lovely muddiness awaiting. Again because of the overnight downpour the rocks and stumps were wet, making the terrain even more treacherous. I slipped on my steps more often than usual. When we were close to Seal Cove we came across a very steep decline with a lot of loose rocks. Thankfully by then and because of the direct sunlight it was not overly slippery. It was still a very dangerous hike down and we had to go even slower than we would normally. A hiker before us slipped and fell back. Luckily all he got out of the slip was a small cut to the finger. As our first aid kit was more readily available, we lent some alcohol swabs to clean and a bandaid to cover. 

By 1115 we were at Seal Cove. Here we took our bags off again to rest and sat on a nearby log to eat our protein wraps and salami. The cove itself was beautiful and brought back fond memories of my time with my friends camping on the beach. While we recouped we decided to look into the potential of finishing today. Neither of us wanted to sleep in the tent again. On google maps it appeared that the Eatonville road was only 11k. Not terrible! Walking on a road would take no time at all. Depending on when we arrived at Eatonville, this would be a viable option.

Then with six more kilometers to Eatonville, onwards we went again. We did come across some beautiful wooded areas with lovely terrain to hike along. No, mud, rocks, or stumps! The fog was going through the forest, and with the moss between the trees, it made for an eerie enchanted forest like image. One of my favourite sections other than the coastal areas. Nearing the end we walked past a few hikers just starting their trek. We mentioned potentially finishing today. They recommended that, if we planned on finishing to go through the trail rather than the road as it would be easier. I said to my mom, that there was no way 15k on a trail with mud, stumps, and inclines would be easier than a road. 

1400 and we finally made it to Eatonville! We had already been hiking for close to eight hours at this point. We were tired, our legs were sore, feet soggy, but we did not want to sleep in a wet sleeping bag. We made our choice to brave the 11k road. How bad could it be? 

Okay, so the road was not easy. It went uphill for over half the 11k. But as I looked at my watch we were still going at a pace faster than along the trail. On the trail we were doing a kilometer every 25-30 minutes. On the road we were doing 13-18 minutes a kilometer. By the last five kilometers I was really feeling it. My pace had slowed significantly. We had already walked 21 kilometers that day. My feet were sore from being waterlogged. They felt like pins and needles. I just kept thinking about my real bed and eating real food. With one kilometer left to go, we threw our bags off to the side and continued on to our car without the extra weight. After the road, it was another one kilometer to the parking lot. We were both so happy to see our car. 27k completed at 1700. A total of 11 hours of hiking/walking. 

We drove back to get our bags. Quickly washed up in the bathrooms and changed our clothes and headed to the Hook & Anchor to eat. Sadly no milkshakes but their chicken and fries were amazing. A lovely end to the day… before our three hour drive home anyways.

In the end, I do not regret this adventure. My mom and I had a lot of fun moments. The great certainly outweighed the less enjoyable moments. What I have learned though is that I am definitely not a fan of sleeping in tents and outhouses. The backpacking itself, while very difficult, would have been more enjoyable if we knew we had a cabin and plumbing awaiting. The mud also did not add to the enjoyment. I hate muddy areas on our day hikes here in Nova Scotia, let alone on a backpacking hike. So anyways, you will not find me in a tent anytime soon unless I am hiking the Inca trail, Patagonia, or Kilimanjaro. These and others similar are my only exceptions!